New Trailer Setup - Vehicles

Just finishing up my new 7'x14' tandem with a 5' V-nose to use as a renovation work trailer.
Just some signage and a few other details to finish up now.
Some highlights are: aluminum wheels, dual 15A circuits, 9 interior plug-ins, 8x4' T5 lighting, full locking metal cabinets, 41" tool chest, insulated, dual roof vents, white FRP interior with box-liner floor, outdoor plugs, through-wall power and air line access, roll-top desk, refrigerator, microwave, Keurig coffee maker, E-track for all equipment tie downs, wall track for heavy duty hooks, security system, 4'x8' sheet storage, 2x?x8' storage, 10' conduit/pipe storage, and likely more to come.

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I know it's a pain in the but I used to have to re adjust my bosses trailer with the majority of the load to one side of the trailer. Of course his was a little bigger Than most on here. Damn it sucked being an apprentice (peeon)

This will be my first post but long time reader. I have a 24' x 8.5' enclosed and love it. It has tandem 6k torsion axles and it rides awesome, I previously had a 18' with springs and the torsions made a huge difference in the ride. My trailer is full and cant imagine anything smaller, I hated having to load and unload tools for different jobs and got caught a few times with not having the tool I wanted on a job, so I carry alot of them. By trailer weighs 14k and I upgraded to a F350 Ford Superduty crew cab Dually due to weight and tongue weight, I also have a large leveling hitch. Kind of a pain everytime putting and attaching the torsion bars when hitching up but it has saved my trailer 3 times from dumb drivers making me perform emergency manuevers that the trailer never should have stayed up right on.
I know I am towing the big trailer but it's nice having a shop on wheels, I can only count a few times I have had to walk far to the trailer, most of the time I talk to homeowner or even neighbors before start of job and explain large trailer size and they have always had space for me. Plus my well organized trailer has been a great selling point for new customers. I cant tell you how many times a person saw it open while I was working, stopped and commented that they loved my organization, then hired me for their jobs. It has been better than plasting any name on the side.
Because of truck and size I do have some money wrapped up in it but it has returned the investment 10 fold easily.

I've been stopped twice with my 12K trailer on I20 near Canton, Tx and made to follow DPS state trooper to a commercial weigh station. Both times I weighed in at around 22,000 (truck and trailer). Then I had to disconnect from the trailer and weigh the trailer separately. They didn't seem to care that I was overweight on the truck but were really interested in the trailer weight and that I had it registered at 12K and that it wasn't overweight. One of the times, there was a 16' utility trailer (probably with 3500 # axles) off to the side with a small Bobcat on it. A common thing here is to register such trailers as "homemade" and tag them at 4,000 GVWR so you don't have to title them. Problem is, if you get caught overweight, they'll impound the trailer and its load. That trailer/Bobcat sat there for several weeks. Not sure how it was resolved. I just know I don't want to get caught in that situation.
When I bought my 10K dump trailer, I actually bought two of them (I when to Antioch, TN to get them) and sold one for a couple hundred more than I paid. The guy to whom I sold it didn't apply for a title (with the manufacturer's certificate provided) and instead registered it as homemade and got caught on IH35 around Waxahachie with a load that put his total weight (for the trailer) at 8900#. His trailer got impounded for 6 weeks and it cost him over $2000 to get the situation resolved.

I do not use the interstates, my only issue is I cross into South Dakota every once in a while and I am just waiting for DOT to be sitting at border and get me. I do not have signs or advertisement on my trailer at all, too many thieves just looking for construction trailers. So far I have been lucky.

So you have 6k axles. You trailer weighs 14k. Do u know what the actual weight on the axles is? You could be over weight on your axles even if you aren't at 26k GCWR. I'd want 7k axles with a trailer that big.

Most 24' trailers with tandem axles at 6000lbs have less than 10k GVWR so if he has 14K in the trailer hes about 4k over roughly. Just because they have a capacity of 6k lb axles it dont mean you have 12k GVWR. It should say his GVWR on his sticker. You can increase GVWR but most people dont pick them options.
The same exact spec trailer but in 14 ft like mine would still have the same exact GVWR. Its strange how they get them figures but if your over them your looking at massive fines if they pull you. Whats funny is around here they pull the unsigned trailers more than the signed trailers.
Even goosenecks dont change that GVWR on most brands.
Just checked the specs on mine
If i had 6k axles tandem i would have 9990LBS GVWR but i can pick an upgrade that increases this to 12k GVWR buy adding different tires and then to get to 14k i would have to add the triple axle option with the same tires as above and 16k has 3 axles at 7klbs each even bigger tires and sometimes even bigger frame upgrade. this is why most people dont pick the upgrades as they think they automatically get 12k lbs GVWR. But when you got a 8x24ft trailer your auctual payload is pretty pathetic after you consider the trailer curb weight into it.

I know I'm over the weight limit, no doubt. I have been looking to get a beefier trailer but they are not cheap at all! I will have one within this next year. Kind of one of those, do what I can now things and hope for the best.

Any trailer I've ever seen runs the GVWR by the axle ratings or even higher. I've never seen a trailer with a GVWR that is less than the axle ratings. Only equal to or more. The reason they get away with more is they figure you can have that extra weight on the tongue and not on the actual trailer axles.
I have seen some trailers with tandem 5k axles rated at 9900 GVWR. That is the only exception.
I used to own a haulmark 8.5' x 24' car hauler. It had 3500lb axles and a 7k GVWR. it weighed more than it could legally carry. Stupid setup that trailer, but was great for hauling around cabinets. I could throw a whole kitchen and 3 bathrooms worth of vanities in it plus more.

You will only know your GVWR buy looking at the specs or sticker on trailer. My trailer has 7000lb GVWR with 2 3500 axles but most do in this setup. But when you step upto 6k/7k axles you don't get 12k/14k unless you spec it currently. Also remember when you get pulled your whole trailer is put on scales not just the wheels. Reason being is your tongue size is part of that GVWR calculation. Here's my trailer with 6k tandem axles. Look at the stock GVWR.
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That's why some bigger trailers end up with a pathetic payload as once you consider the extra curb weight of the trailer you only end up with about 1500lb extra payload over a trailer with 3500lb tandem axles and half the size.

With these specs and two 6000# axles which equals 12000# that is still more then the 9900# GVWR. Or in the case of the 3500# axles the 7000# GVWR is the max for them correct.

I suspect that a 9900# GVWR has more to do with Federal DOT regs than anything to do with the capacity of the trailer. My dump trailer has 5200# axles and is rated at 9900# GVWR on the nameplate, but the MSO (which was used for titling it) states empty weight 3400#, capacity 7000#. That adds up to the sum of the axle capacities (10,400#).
When I was stopped/weighed with the 12K trailer, the DPS officer retrieved the empty weight/capacity data from the registration. The Texas title has no mention of GVWR. I checked the title/registration for my 1-ton cutaway. Again, empty weight/capacity. No mention of GVWR.

Axles are only part of the setup. Just because it has dual 6k axles it don't automatically mean you have 12lb GVWR. The tires, frame, tongue size etc etc all affect GVWR. That's why it's always best to check the vin sticker like you do in trucks as it will tell you what your GVWR is as spec'd from new. Here's mine.
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Its sometimes as easy as changing the tires to increase GVWR.

The diagonal length of a 7x14x7 is just over 17'. Hauling a bundle of trim 12"-16" in diameter would be possible in a 14' trailer if it's laid out with that usage in mind.

Do you know anything about diamond trailers been seeing them everywhere.

Sure it is. Is that convenient? Not so much.
Why so much support for the 14's when the 16's are so similarly priced? If your going to spend $5,000 why not $5,400?

Anyone have a front mount hitch on their tow vehicle (or any vehicle you use as a "yard mule")?
Does it work well for you?

Because 16's are on the limit of not being able to get into a lot of areas. I struggle with my 14 in a lot of places and the majority of places I def couldn't get a 16 into. I even designed my layout so I could back the barn doors upto walls and trees just to gain a extra couple of feet back and still be able to get to all my tools.
Here's an example of a common issue for me. I have to remove the jack to get into drives so that I can get the hitch low enough to get the rear high enough to not gouge the drive when reversing in. It's an inch from the road there but it hits when pulling away so I have to place boards under the hitch.

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My uncle drove lowboys all his life and taught me a few tricks even some scrap two by fours thrown under there definitely helps

Well as much as would like to one up your F150 with my Tundra... Our trucks are too low to begin with. I can understand behind the axles, that is a length issue.

Your tundra maybe but my f150 has to use a drop hitch to tow my trailer so its really too high.
The problem is the rear of my trailer is normally about an inch away from the ground on most slopes and the front about the same so adding another 2ft overall would bottom me out on most drives I pull into. reason I know this is because we have a 16 that can't get hardly anywhere around here other than interstates and main roads.

Always wondered in what situation them things work. If I used them it would bottom out my tongue up front.

skid wheels do the job, but when they roll across a customer's driveway they will leave marks. Some customers are going to complain about white scratches running down thier driveway.
The argument of 14' vs. 16' is no different than any other length. If you are considering a 10', why not 12'. This is where I think I screwed up buying an 18'.
The price was right. A really nice trailer for $3,000. The problem I'm finding is where to put it. When I bought it, I went over previous jobs in my head and thought 18' would be no problem. Now that I have it, problems always come up. Since July we haven't had a single job that I could park it on. I used it a couple of times because it was easier than unloading tools and re-loading into a truck.
One time, I thought, "I'll just park on the street, no problem walking a little extra." When I got to the job site, the closest parking spot was 4 houses away. Nobody had parked there for weeks.

Makes me wonder if some sort of pneumatic or hydraulic lift kit (that would only be used for occasional clearance issues) would be practical. Might need to also be able to raise the ball height.
I would convert from a 15' cutaway van to a 16' trailer if I could get it into my garage. Heck, the back bumper of my cutaway only clears my driveway (which slopes steeply down from the street - about a 4' elevation change in 25') by a couple of inches.

Be nice if there was such a system. That's the problem with torsion flex axles. Silly low to the ground which is nice for getting in and out of but horrible for ground clearance.

Low would be nice (for access) but I think I would sacrifice some of that and go with leaf spring suspension. Just cutting the 37.5" of the cutaway in half is applealing to me.

Problem is the leafs ride like crap. I couldnt have have the stuff I have mounted in my trailer the way it is If I went leafs plus moving stuff in and out with the barn doors can be a pig.

So imagine what that's like with a cutaway van (with rollup door).

I guess you could go with torsion axles and just mount them with spacers to get additional ground clearance.

Mine is a torsion axle and I don't think it rides all that low. Guy I work with has springs and our trailers ride about the same.

Must be a lot different out here, but I rarely have problems parking my 20 on a job. Some times we have 2 trailers , my box van and dump trailer too. Now that takes up a lot of room.

Yeah you won't catch me in one of them lol. Not sure that's even possible. I'm sure it could be with some work but may as well go springs if you do that.

Yeah living in mountain vallys ain't fun for getting into drives. One job I was at a few months back I couldn't get my trailer up there at all. Had to walk about 3 mins up a stupidly steep road to get to the house. I could only just about walk up the road it was that step.

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