New Trailer Setup - Vehicles

Just finishing up my new 7'x14' tandem with a 5' V-nose to use as a renovation work trailer.
Just some signage and a few other details to finish up now.
Some highlights are: aluminum wheels, dual 15A circuits, 9 interior plug-ins, 8x4' T5 lighting, full locking metal cabinets, 41" tool chest, insulated, dual roof vents, white FRP interior with box-liner floor, outdoor plugs, through-wall power and air line access, roll-top desk, refrigerator, microwave, Keurig coffee maker, E-track for all equipment tie downs, wall track for heavy duty hooks, security system, 4'x8' sheet storage, 2x?x8' storage, 10' conduit/pipe storage, and likely more to come.

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I did it to I was like how big is that trailer

The orange vac and Morning Wood's comment were the tip off for me.
It is a very nice set up.

I have 2 doors on my own trailer curbside. I was looking at that and seeing his saw at the front and wondering why he had 2 doors streetside...All made sense after getting the eyes & brain reoriented!

Madmark,
That is ultra-swwwweeeeeeeeet!
I am curious do you have the wall cabinets set up is such a fashion that various items such as cans of wd-40, spray paint/primer, cleaning solutions, spray adhesives, an the veritable sundry of other similar items from rolling around/being tossed about?
Perhaps, one day, when I grow up, I can acquire a similar set up.
Great job!

Nice setup. but is that your full time tow vehicle? I used to use a Cherokee jeep to pull my trailer. Think it only had a tow capacity of 3300lbs the way it was spec'd. It was geared all wrong to tow with as well. once you load that trailer up your gonna have a lot of weight on that tongue.

Champion thread derailer? After 6 posts?

I chose to run two circuits in the trailer and feed them with pigtails that I can plug extension cords in to. I used a small access panel for these cords and one for air lines so I can keep them connected and lock the trailer up tight.
I have two countertop areas inside but also two tables for outdoors. I plan on adding an awning as well but in winter it's inside the job site only.
The lumber comes and goes bit I keep a few of everything in there, saves trips to the store during the day. The MDF is heavy but the 2Xs aren't bad.

Hi Where might I find the plug adapter to attach extension cords to my trailer. Thanks

I used something similar on my trailer
http://http://www.marinco.com/produc...er-inlet-black

Search "power inlet" on amazon. Lots of them on there

thanks....looking forward to getting back on my KHS Velvet........winter was too much like winter this year.

Hey everyone, I'm a newbie to the forum but a long time viewer and fan..... Just joined and I'm in the process of buying a trailer. I want power and maybe some kind of track lighting... Any ideas. Y'all have some amazing set ups and I will be swagger jacking a little bit of everything.... However BC has my vote for best. I am also new to being a business owner, but not new to the trade. Grew up in the biz and didn't take my fathers reins, instead built all I have on my own steam(blood,sweat,tears,sanity)... Any advice for a young up and coming biz owner. Ie advertising, employees, taxes, family.....ect

Nice

Hey Irish welcome to the forum. You may want to break them questions up into different sub categories. Much easier for people to answer them. What trailer you thinking of getting?

Oh, sorry just so many questions.I want a 6 by 10 Vnose..... Limited funds and it's only me and a helper now so it should work... Only worry I have is I want a work bench to the left and racks to the right, and I'm worried about having little to no cargo/ wiggle room after I fit it out. What do u think.

When I went to buy a trailer, I was going to get a 6x12. The dealer showed me a 7x12 v nose. I have a work bench on the left and shelves on the right. That extra 1 ft makes a big diff. Something to consider.

I agree, it's a huge difference. My 7x14 has 2' wide shelves on both side and 3' walk/ pile crap place. My old 6x12 had almost no room to move in it.

I was more confused by the talk about a table since all I saw was the yellow (Dewalt?) job site table saw in about the third pic in the OP.

That IS a nice setup. I, too, would like to know how much is actually weighs.

Don't get a 6x10. Get a 7x14. You will outgrow a 6x10 before you know it and wish you went bigger from day one.

With a 6' wide, you'll end up with 12" deep shelves on the one side and a 12" deep work bench on the other. You really need to keep as close to 36" width down the middle for access to everything. I don't think you'll find a 6' wide too appealing if you plan on working inside it.
Also, unless you're only 5' tall, consider ordering one with extra headroom.
I started with a 5 x 8.5, then a 6 x 12, now a 7 x 20....
And don't worry about a v-nose. It's not going to make much/ any difference with fuel, and will only create headaches in space layout. Plus, they cost more.

Interesting. I've always thought about that. Only advantage I could see to a 14' V-nose is that perhaps 16' trim would fit.
Any other opinions, specifically about V-nose?

Let's see... I'll go in order of what I bought: 6x12, 6x12, 8.5x20, 7x16, 7x16. Just sold off one of the 7x16s because I downsized. Go for a 7' bare minimum, 8'-8.5' is better. Don't go any shorter than 16' unless you never ever ever ever ever ever need 16' material. Put racks on it for your ladders, don't get a v-nose, instead build a box on the front for your cords and hoses. I'll keep the 7x16 I have for a few more years but then I'll get a 8'-8.5' x 16 and outfit it much like Ron Paulk does his box truck.

This right here!

Robert basically sums it up above. The only advantage to a v nose is the ability to carry a few longer pieces, but even that is limited to only a few inches in width at the center.
Otherwise, it's hard to install useful shelving on the v-nose unless it's shallow, or you want triangular shaped shelving.

My 8x20 has got way to small. Remodeling in it again to gain more room. If had to do it over again would do a 8.5x 24 0r 26 also would go like 7 tall too.

I think I'll get another 14' or a 16 before going 24' or 26'

That's what I'd done, the 8.5x20 was great but it was better to split things up so I bought 2 of the same 7x16's. But then I changed my mind about how I was doing things and sold off 1. I'm still in the process of dialing in exactly what I want in the trailer and what I store at home. All Festool stays in my truck or my garage, and I've taken some of the duplicates out of the trailer and store those at my place. Keeping too many spare drill bits, and hardware encourages mis-use and abuse. Guys just blow through stuff cause "There's plenty in the trailer".

I work just by myself. So my trailer is my shop, my brake is on one side and work bench on the other. At this point in the game more then likely will not buy a new trailer unless really need to. I have a box van that is 16 ft work area in it. right now use it to store and cut my siding in . So between it and my trailer things work out ok . Just need to put a better hitch on the van to pull the trailer with when I need to .

Where is the guy who has the trailer that has his brake on a long horizontal door that opens out from the side of his trailer? Did I see that here or somewhere else?

wouldn't another advantage of a 14' v-nose as compared to a 16' flat be that it IS 2' shorter? I'm planning on pulling this with a vehicle whose primary job isn't to tow-that 2' less in length may mean the difference between pulling into a driveway without scraping or not.

It's hard to carry 16' trim in your 14 flat nose.

It's really not that hard

2x12x16?

The only thing that's holding me back from a 7 by 14 is the cost. I'm using a 4 by 6 now and I look like Jed clampit when it's full of tools. And we all know a bad first appearance can screw the pooch on a sale. I'm only 5'7" tall so it might work with height and my 6'4" helper can deal with it... But what if the work bench was at the front of the rig, y'all think that might work. Thanks.

If its less than 5 lengths I put it on my rack. It over hangs a little in front and back but only by a tiny bit. I would guess 90% of guys in here have material like that delivered.

I definitely deliver it. Strapping and loading can be a real pain.

I've had 3 7x14s over the years and I always thought a 16 would be better, based on my experiences. No 16 was available at those times.

So are people able to put 16' material into a 14' V-nose? I've thought about having some small racks on one side that I could load some 16' trim in when it's not delivered.
How about gas mileage on a 6x12 vs 7x14?
I'm about to drop the hammer on a new 7x14.

With the right organization you can get a lot in a 6x12. This is mine ATTACH]107556[/ATTACH]
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Lol I don't see anything in there.

We have a 7 x 14 for concrete tools and I have a 8 x 18 for carpentry. For pulling I really prefer the 7 x 14. Alot easier.
I was looking for a 7 x 16 when I found the 8 x 18'. It is great when you are on site, plenty of room. Pulling it is a pain though.
If I were going to do it over I would'nt get bigger than the 14'. I would get the V-nose though. I don't see a reason not to.
Another thing to think about is where you will be working. When you aren't working out of a trailer you always have plenty of space to park them. We have been on 2 tight jobs for the last 9 months. No way to get a trailer in there. If it were smaller I might try.
I look at it like my camper. When I'm camping, it can't be big enough. When I'm pulling it, its like dragging a 28' concrete block down the highway.

I'm lucky I didn't go bigger than 14 as it would be impossible for me to get up most drive ways around here. Mainly because they bottom out on steel drives.

If I had an extra 1000$ to put on a new rig the 7by 14 would be my pick. What do y'all know about financing on a trailer. Would y'all just wait and save you your money, try to finance, or buy what I can afford for now. I also want to remind you that I work alone with the exception of a helper and don't need every tool under the sun but I do need a work bench and storage. And also how fast trailers depreciate cost wise. Thanks

Myself I financed mine when i bought it. Was not a very big payment pre month. Good way to build credit if you need to and it frees up some income for you. It is always nice to be able to pay cash ,but sometimes that just is not possible and you need the item to help your buiness run better.

In my opinion, trailers pay for themselves quickly. You have to take into account how much time you spend loading and unloading tools everyday. Not to mention trying to get stuff in your truck covered up when it is going to rain or snow.
For us we would always end up needing something we didn't load. So it was either make do or go back and get it. That takes time also.
I don't regret it. The sooner you buy it, the sooner your productivity will go up.

Get a loan. It's a small payment (most likely less than $200 a month) and building business credit is always a good thing. Having a couple extra grand in savings will help so much more than the good feeling of equity.

I bought a trailer very early in my business and it paid for itself quickly. If needed I would absolutely finance one if you can easily handle the payments even if things don't go exactly as planned.
Here is my current 7x16. There's a lot of crap on the floor right now because of the recent snow, things just got thrown in. I also need to get 1 table saw out and take some broken tools back to my garage.

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Wow thanks everyone, I got 2000$ down so payments should be low

You are in Georgia. Check out Lark trailers in Georgia. You used to be able to buy factory direct custom made and very competitive.

People don't think of Dallas as hilly but the area I live (Oak Cliff) is quite hilly. Makes for lots of homes with steep driveways.

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