Tapco 3 Break - Windows, Siding and Doors

Good, Bad or alright???

Check with Bam Bamm, I think he had/has one.
Seems like this has been around here before.

I searched and didnt find it. Probably mucked up the search.

Try "brake"

No not that kind, the break kind. Woops to tired to think anymore, need to sleep for a week straight.

Say good night Chris.
Good Night Chris.

Try pro 3. Its good, we had one for about 10 years. Can get attachments for it to hold and cut your coil, very handy.

I found one for 300 bucks. Looks in great shape just seeing if its worth it.

I just sold my old one for $500. It was in very good condition, but about 12 years old. It got very light use doing siding coil. They ran around $1100 brand new, several years ago. I bought a Pro 19 to replace it.

So there is quite a difference in the 3 and pro series? I haven't even bent any coil stock and am looking for something to bend up z-flashings and other rock cap and beam flashing's. Nothing like trimming a whole house in coil. Just want to be able to bend custom stuff and not just use what the lumber yard has. Just a little bit of going a little farther to offer a more custom install.

no real diff,the earlier pro's don't accept the roller shear,thats really the only difference

Im gonna approach it like that, then maybe I can get it for two fiddy. Anything to look out for on them? I usually dont buy used tools as abuse usually bites you.

Bend a full length piece of metal on it with two bends, into a u shape if you will. Are they straight? Does the piece appear to curve or twist after bending?

Often the brake will be fine except that the PO used a knife against the stainless edge. Over time this cuts into the stainless and creates an ever so slight curve in your bends that you may not notice till you're wrapping a 16' garage door or 10' 4x4's. The stainless piece is easy to replace and is fairly cheap but shipping could be half the cost of the brake. Also look down into the hinge to be sure it hasn't had nails dropped in it then raised and that it's not all cut up from a knife too. If these check out you should be all good.

Great deal if there's no damage.

It is not to hard or costly to up grade the 3 to the Pro just change out the upper clamping bar. I helped my work buddy do it to his.

this is kinda for user38755 or anyone else that knows, how do you change the stainless edge on a tapco pro 14, do you slide it in from the end, or tap it into place from the front
thanks

tap on from the front

use a block of wood to protect the edge as you tap

Thanks Tom for this information Just got a new edge for my Black Max. Am sure would of firgured it out , but now I don't have to.

Thanks a lot, it helps me out greatly, if only I checked my email first. The only other resource I found on the net was for a windy brake, and it had said to slide it in from the end, which after yesterdays ordeal, I can tell you first hand does not work, it definitely needs to be tapped in from the front. Live in learn I guess. I must say this is a great forum, did not expect such a helpful reply so soon.
All the best

what can i say...i'm a great guy

I put a new stainless steel edge on my brake the other day. Wow it looks like it is really going to make it work better. Hard to believe that after about 10 years of running a knife along the edge that you would remove enough material to make a different. Now my ends aren't rolling in more the the middle. Plus thinking my caps will come out even the total lenght. Before the middle was always wider, not by much but wider.

So guys if you use your brake a lot , like all the time I would recommend changing the SS edge on it. Not bad money 35.00 for part and had it come with my other siding material.

I've got a pro 3 that I got used. I bought the tune up kit and tuned it. But it does bend the ends in farther on long pieces.(the ends get over bent). I am using heavier aluminum. I think the .030 rather than the .020. You think a new stainless edge would help the thing out?

Not real sure , but mine does not seem as bad as it was . Will tell more when get bending some more long stuff, 10'. Mine is a Black Max and I bend a lot of steel trim coil on it. For the cost of the edge it sure would be worth the try.

.032?thats pushing the pro 3,it will bend it but if your using that heavy aluminum regularly you should be using the max

I'm not nearly the Tapco veteran that some around here are, but I think that a certain amount of overbending at the ends is pretty much inevitable, even with a brand new brake.
The center of your piece is surrounded on both sides, and takes more pressure to bend than the ends, which only have that "reinforcement" on one side. The brake will flex just a bit in conformance to that uneven pressure.
If you had a 2 ton shop brake, it would be a different story, but even Tom wouldn't want to haul one of those around.

your right as usual Tin

I have two pro 3's that I send out with crews, both of them bend a bit more at the ends the same way yours does. I just reach over and pull back on the piece a bit before unlocking the brake. I also have an old tapco Max set up in the shop and it does the same thing. But the new Max i mum does not it is very nice but a pain in the azz to move around.
I dont bend alot of vinyl coated coil, usually I only bend heavier alum or light steel coil so I dont think that is your issue.

I should have read the whole thread it looks like Tin already solved it.

Anyone ever actually got few 4" x 4" scraps and put in the cams? Adjust set screws and there you are

actually over bending slightly then pulling the material back to 90 gently can help strengthen the wide face of your trim

Yeah, I did that with mine when I got the tune up kit. I think my brake is just old and tired. I don't know for sure the thickness of the aluminum but of the two most popular thicknesses of coil stock it is the thicker one. I've also bent 16 ounce copper on it. It does the same thing

I love my tapco, bought the coil feeder and cutting tool with it, which I highly recommend. Back in the day we used to roll it out in the grass, cut it with snips, the cut it with a knife clamped in the brake. I bet my old boss is still doing it that way.

my brake uses the non adjustable cams,there is some slippage but i want to be able to lock it at any point with one hand,not just at the upright handle
remember the tighter you adjust your brake the faster the cams,rods and pivot bolts will wear

We roll it out on a siding box and cut it with our razor knife. Pop it and it separates. Never even gave the roller a thought, it just looks too fancy for my tastes. Once you get a rhythm going, the ground method is very fast for me.

My cutting table in my trailer is 12' long , never have to worry about it being on the ground especially during the winter months . always inside and dry. Just roll it out mark and cut.

I just pulled and old tapco pro3 down from the loft of broken tools at the shop. I have a brand new shiny lower jaw assembly and everything I need to rebuild it. This was the first brake that I ever owned so I couldn't throw her away.
All of this brake talk lately has got me fired up to fix the old thing.
IMAGE(http://architectage.com/aaattaches/aaattaches8/https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NyvHRLCJOn4/TnPkYqxw21I/AAAAAAAADO0/pKQpUaHhjBA/s1152/DSC00574.JPG)

May I please inquire as to where you found it for this price?

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